We got history on our free Spanish classes. Turns out the program was started by the mayor of Cuenca to teach Espaniol to gringos and get at least some of them proficient enough in the language that they could then communicate well enough with Cuencanos to teach them English. Very cool plan as teaching English to Ecuadorians is real emphasis in schools. Personally, I 'have miles to go before I sleep (or teach in this case).'
Our free class teachers (maestras) are volunteers, and as will happen with volunteers, they come and they go. Our teacher went....and was replaced with a new one.
The reason I bring this up is that this woman is very interesting. She is from Venezuela and has been in Ecuador one month (un mesa). She was in Peru and her visa was expiring. She told friends that she was going to try for an extension. They said 'you should go to Cuenca instead.' She had never heard of Cuenca before and knew nothing about it, but went anyway. And now she is teaching our class as a volunteer.
She has done a good deal of traveling including two stints in the States with her family (Texas and Oklahoma respectively). She has studied classic languages in Venezuela and at Texas A&M. Her goal is to travel the world as a volunteer. She is a happy and seemingly very centered person.
I know nothing about Facebook as it is a road I have not traveled. Those of you who do though may recognize her handle. She is 'the traveling freckle'. I understand she has quite a following. The best part for us though is that she has a job selling chocolate and is bringing some to class jueves (Thursday). I will say it again, Ecuador understands chocolate.
We just keep meeting really interesting people.

Today we got an early start (9:15) and cruised up to Tarqui, a town north (norte) of Cuenca. On the football (soccer down here folks) field, were 100+ booths of multi-national vendors. Their wares included; jewelry, woven goods, pottery, ceramics, food products (mostly organic), chocolate (not a regular food product), plants, fresh fruit and vegetables, and clothing. We spent three hours going through the booths, talking with venders, buying goods, and being entertained with live music, trained birds, and equestrian shows.
Price of admission? you ask. Nada, cero, nil, zilch. They do this three or four times a year according to the cabbie who took us back to Cuenca once we were broke. The band we heard was from Argentina. We bought a beautiful piece of hand done cloth work from Peru, and lots of food products from Tarqui and Azay province. Oh yeah, Jackie got a cool bracelet also.

a couple pics of our Peruvian purchase. It looks much better in person but you'll have to come visit to know that.

Here are some pics of and related to the new guitar. This instrument is unbelievable. I have owned many guitars and played many more over the years, and this is the finest instrument that I have ever owned.

the Luther, me and my new guitar

The Luther with one of his armadillo shell instruments

San Bortolome el Centro church

Jackie, me, George, Rene

Wednesday (Miercoles) we traveled to San Bortolome. Where?, what?, why? you ask. Good question!
As it happens, San Bortolome is home to a world renowned family of luthiers. These folks have been making guitars for several generations. There guitars have been played by many greats not the least of which was Andres Segovia (the god idol of classical guitar.) I have been chomping at the bit to play one of these instruments and possibly eventually own one.
So at 9:00 AM Jackie, our friends Renee and George, I, and our taxi driver Victor left Cuenca heading Northeast. We goofed around some on the way and finally with the assistance of girl waiting for a bus on very quiet mountain highway, we found our way into San Bortolome's el centro plaza. We all exited the cab to stretch and check out the town center. Victor went to speak with some locals congregated under a porch on a corner of the square. We goofed around about ten minutes when Victor returned to inform us that 'the guy in the tan shirt is a relative of the luthiers. He says that their store is across the plaza but it is closed right now. But the factory is two blocks (?) that way.' I say 'cool, we can walk up there.' Victor half smiles and says 'they say two blocks but you never know.'
So we pile in the cab and follow the given directions. Somewhere around three quarters of mile later, including a nice hunk of seventy degree hill, we arrive at the factory. The pictures are included and speak for themselves.
The 'factory' is absurdly small and is basically a covered porch. The luthier was busy at work on instruments called 'charango.' This is a ten stringed, belly backed lute-like instrument that is made with an armadillo shell for the back. Sadly, he had two in progress but none complete. So I was unable to play or hear the instrument. If he had one done, I probably would now own it.
He did have two guitars that I got play. One was a traditional twelve fret classical guitar. The craftsmanship was superb both in appearance and in sound quality. The instrument was incredibly responsive and delicate. Very nice instrument. It was $90.00. The other guitar was also a classical guitar but it had a cutaway to expand the fretboard. Again, this was a very nice instrument. The guitar had a two piece back with a top that jumped when the guitar was played. A truly amazing instrument ($150.00), but just not me. I ask 'do you have more?' He says 'yes, they are in the store in el centro.'
So we pile in the cab (sadly the luthier didn't fit, so he walked) and we head back. The shop had eight stacking chairs, a counter with some papers and shop stuff, and a glass case with two guitars. The case could probably hold eight guitars but didn't.
I need to back up a bit to describe my pre-conception of the factory and store. I have been in a few luthier workspaces and also in their retail shops. The workspaces (factories) were all large, well organized albeit messy environments. These were spaces where the wood was carefully aged, honed, pampered and eventually shaped.
The retail sights were designed to push guitars. They were clean, slick, comfortable spaces featuring several examples of each available model of instrument.
San Bortolome was none of the above. I was quite disappointed until I played the instruments. They were not only beautiful to see, but they were amazing instruments. The el centro store also had a twelve fret classical guitar and a cutaway guitar. I played both and fell in love with the cutaway model to a point that I didn't want to let go of it. Of course I bought it. The price was $250.00.  As we left the shop, the luthier told me that I needed to put good strings on it because the ones that came with the instrument were lousy strings with no quality to them.
Since I brought the guitar home and tuned it to pitch, I cannot believe what an amazing instrument this is. I plan to find strings tomorrow, but right now I believe that this is the finest instrument I have ever owned. And I have owned a lot of instruments. I will record something with it and post pics once I have new strings.
Lovin' Ecuador.

It had to happen eventually. Yep, you guessed it. We had our first Spanish lesson today.
It was quite educational. Speaking another language is so easy in slow motion. That is given enough time to think, remember and formulate sentences and other conversational chunks, I can be a real genius. Sadly interactions occur in real time. And then I don't make it above the developmentally delayed level.
The entire class was done in Spanish and thankfully I only said 'no entiendo' once in an hour and a half (una hora y media.)
Lessons are Tuesday and Thursday (Martes y Jueves.)
It is a spectacular day in Cuenca today. The nicest day since our return. Low 80s, mostly clear skies.
Wow.

 

Jackie really wants this house. So if each of you chip in $47,254.77, maybe we can rent it.

Wuddya say?

 

 

Doctor doctor Mr. MD.
Today we both went to see a local GP here in Cuenca. A friend had seen him recently and highly recommended him. So around 11:15 or so this morning, Jackie dials up his office. He answers the call. He being the doctor in person. Not an electronic maze of pre-recorded voices with multiple choice questions to which you respond by pressing some number only to be rewarded with another electronic question. No, this was the doctor on the line. And, he spoke perfect English, better than me, or I. Whatever.
So Jackie explains that I am supposed to be having my INR (blood viscosity) tested on a regular basis. And haven't. She further explains that she has run out of her prescription medication and has been unable to find the same concoction in Cuenca. 
'Can we make an appointment to come in, maybe next week?'
'Sure, or you could come in today.'
'What time is good?'
'I am here until 1:30 today. Or you can come after 10:00 tomorrow.'
'We will try to come today. Do you need our names?'
'No.'
So we hailed a taxi and set out for the doctor. His office is above a pharmacy (pharmacia). We walked up the stairs and found his office complete with scale, exam table, chairs and diplomas. The doc sat behind a desk but quickly jumped up in front of it when we entered the office
We introduced ourselves and we were invited to sit. Which we did. And we proceeded to explain our situations and respond to his questions. After about a half hour, we left the office. Jackie had the local name of the med she needs (available over the counter at the downstairs pharmacy, or most any other pharmacy.) She also had a box of sample pills to relieve the itch of some bug bites she got. I left with a blood draw referral for my INR testing, and was told that I could get the lab results myself in person or by email, or I could have them forwarded to the doc and he would interpret them and pass the results onto me. Since I need to be tested bi-weekly, I can just go to lab every two weeks. No need for a referral or office call to the doc.
The last item of business prior to departing was 'cuanto?' (how much do we owe you?'
'My fee is $20.00.' replies the doc.
'Is that for both of us or individually?'
'Both of you. I was actually thinking of charging you $10.00 because I really didn't do much for you.'
'That's okay thank you.'
As we leave the office, he is saying 'come back when you are sick, so I can do something.'
Cuenca. Go figure.
Here are some more pics of our neighborhood sidewalks.