Wednesday (Miercoles) we traveled to San Bortolome. Where?, what?, why? you ask. Good question!
As it happens, San Bortolome is home to a world renowned family of luthiers. These folks have been making guitars for several generations. There guitars have been played by many greats not the least of which was Andres Segovia (the god idol of classical guitar.) I have been chomping at the bit to play one of these instruments and possibly eventually own one.
So at 9:00 AM Jackie, our friends Renee and George, I, and our taxi driver Victor left Cuenca heading Northeast. We goofed around some on the way and finally with the assistance of girl waiting for a bus on very quiet mountain highway, we found our way into San Bortolome's el centro plaza. We all exited the cab to stretch and check out the town center. Victor went to speak with some locals congregated under a porch on a corner of the square. We goofed around about ten minutes when Victor returned to inform us that 'the guy in the tan shirt is a relative of the luthiers. He says that their store is across the plaza but it is closed right now. But the factory is two blocks (?) that way.' I say 'cool, we can walk up there.' Victor half smiles and says 'they say two blocks but you never know.'
So we pile in the cab and follow the given directions. Somewhere around three quarters of mile later, including a nice hunk of seventy degree hill, we arrive at the factory. The pictures are included and speak for themselves.
The 'factory' is absurdly small and is basically a covered porch. The luthier was busy at work on instruments called 'charango.' This is a ten stringed, belly backed lute-like instrument that is made with an armadillo shell for the back. Sadly, he had two in progress but none complete. So I was unable to play or hear the instrument. If he had one done, I probably would now own it.
He did have two guitars that I got play. One was a traditional twelve fret classical guitar. The craftsmanship was superb both in appearance and in sound quality. The instrument was incredibly responsive and delicate. Very nice instrument. It was $90.00. The other guitar was also a classical guitar but it had a cutaway to expand the fretboard. Again, this was a very nice instrument. The guitar had a two piece back with a top that jumped when the guitar was played. A truly amazing instrument ($150.00), but just not me. I ask 'do you have more?' He says 'yes, they are in the store in el centro.'
So we pile in the cab (sadly the luthier didn't fit, so he walked) and we head back. The shop had eight stacking chairs, a counter with some papers and shop stuff, and a glass case with two guitars. The case could probably hold eight guitars but didn't.
I need to back up a bit to describe my pre-conception of the factory and store. I have been in a few luthier workspaces and also in their retail shops. The workspaces (factories) were all large, well organized albeit messy environments. These were spaces where the wood was carefully aged, honed, pampered and eventually shaped.
The retail sights were designed to push guitars. They were clean, slick, comfortable spaces featuring several examples of each available model of instrument.
San Bortolome was none of the above. I was quite disappointed until I played the instruments. They were not only beautiful to see, but they were amazing instruments. The el centro store also had a twelve fret classical guitar and a cutaway guitar. I played both and fell in love with the cutaway model to a point that I didn't want to let go of it. Of course I bought it. The price was $250.00.  As we left the shop, the luthier told me that I needed to put good strings on it because the ones that came with the instrument were lousy strings with no quality to them.
Since I brought the guitar home and tuned it to pitch, I cannot believe what an amazing instrument this is. I plan to find strings tomorrow, but right now I believe that this is the finest instrument I have ever owned. And I have owned a lot of instruments. I will record something with it and post pics once I have new strings.
Lovin' Ecuador.