November 3 is Cuenca independence day and it is a huge holiday. In fact, so huge that the party started today and will continue four days through the third. Someone with more knowledge and ability than me, ordered up and delivered a beautiful, sunny, mid 80s day with a gentle breeze. Wow, I've never seen a sunny, mid 80s Halloween. Got one today. Welcome to the equator.
Several of the parks as well as many large sections along the Tomybamba river are lined with booths where vendors display their wares for sale. Goods include 100% chocolate, woven hangings and clothing, beautiful embroidered pieces and embroidered clothing, food, drink, pottery, paintings, jewelry, leather goods and clothing, shoes (zapatos), lotions, teas, coffee, and more. We spent the day and pile of money touring a small portion of the booths. We got some very nice things, mostly decorations for our casa. Come visit and you can see the stuff first hand.
Tonight we are off to a Halloween costume party at one of the local hang outs. They have a rock band. Should be a kick. The next three days will be more gawking at hand crafted goods and enjoying the sun, food, drink and camaraderie. Tuesday we are having early thanksgiving with sixteen of our closest friends.
Yesterday a new bakery opened a few doors down the street from us. We stopped in and picked up some croissants and cinnamon buns. They were quite good. American style texture. Much of the baked goods here tend to be very light and very flakey (altitude don't 'cha know). Cuencan breads are typically most disappointing to a gringo palate. This bread dough was quite good though and they told us that they are trying to appeal to the gringo taste ("the way you like it", "if you have suggestions or special orders..."). Looking forward to good bread. I don't miss too much about life up North (norte), but I grew up on hearty bread.
And such is our life in Cuenca. Hasta luego.

We spent yesterday in Quito submitting our applications for resident visas. Our flight left at 8:40 and arrived at the Quito airport around 9:30. We were supposed to meet a facilitator, whom we had never met, at the government office to complete and submit our applications. We were told several times that it would take 2-3 hours to complete and submit the apps. So rather than booking our return flight at 2:30 (we all know that if you tempt fate it will bite you in the rear), we booked the return to Cuenca for 6:40. Lots of time to get 'er done and relax. I forgot to mention an integral component of the timetable. The trip from the Quito airport to downtown Quito is a one hour cab ride. And these cabbies don't diddle around to run up the tab. It is pedal to the metal.
All that being said, we arrived by fast moving cab at the government office around 10:35. We were met by an English speaking Ecuadorian gentleman who looked to be in his twenties. He greeted us by name, introduced himself, and told us that he worked with Andrea the facilitator we supposed to meet.  He then took inside the office that had around ten clerks attending numbered stations. There were around sixty (I wasn't counting yesterday, never do an Jueves ((Thursday))) people sitting and waiting their turn while each station had a customer. Our facilitator led us to station #3 where he caught the eye of the clerk. She reached behind her and grabbed a thick folder that she handed to him. This was our application packet. He opened it and had us sign in a few (no counting on Thursday) locations. We did and he handed the packet back to the clerk and then led us down to station #6. Here the clerk was serving a woman so the facilitator stayed off to the side for a few minutes until the clerk was free. At that point we moved in, presented our passports, information was entered into his computer, and our pictures were taken. Andrea joined us just prior to our picture session. She speaks no English, thus the associate.
Once the pics were a wrap and the director yelled 'cut', Andrea told us that we were done and that t would take 45 days to process our applications. The whole process took ten minutes. So we decided to scoot back to the airport and see if we could get on the afternoon flight. Andrea's husband drives a cab (keep it in the family fight?) so she called him and twenty minutes later we were on our way back to the airport.
This driver knew a way to avoid all freeway congestion of the city (which can move very slow). We exited Quito by way of very long cobblestone switch-back two lane road. It was very scenic, with little traffic. It probably didn't do good things to the suspension system of his cab considering the cobblestone surface and speed he was going, but sure got out of Dodge fast. We got the airport around 11:50 to find that the afternoon Cuenca flight was full and our next option was the 6:40 flight that we were currently booked on.
So we spent the afternoon at the airport hanging out. We weren't up for two more hour long cab rides. It was fun and educational. Well maybe neither. The chairs were not exactly home style cozy but at least there were chairs. We ate at restaurant and the prices weren't too horrible considering we were a captive audience. We later returned and sat in the bar. We had noticed on the menu earlier that while their drinks were fairly pricey (imported American booze), their wine was $11.00 a bottle. So it must be very affordable by the glass also. With this information in hand, we ordered chip and guac y vino blanco. The chips and guac were good as was the vino, so I got a second glass. When done I kindly asked 'puedo pagar la cuinta po davor' (may I pay the bill please). The barman brought the bill $44.00. What!!! Where did that come from? Turns out the wine is $11.00 a bottle and $9.36 a glass. Airports go figure.
We just finished our first Cuenca thunderstorm. I don't think that I have ever heard thunder that loud.
Oh yeah, the thing that I wanted to note was; because we have to wait 45 days on our visa apps, we can't leave the country. Well we can leave, we just can't get back in. The ninety days on our passports expires soon and so we can't come back to Ecuador on our passports for 180 days. But because we have applications for resident visas, we can stay until those apps are resolved. In a sense we are now hijacked in South America. Maybe they'll make a movie.

We spent five hours today enjoying an Oktoberfest experience in Cuenca, Ecuador. The woman who hosted the event at her home has been in Cuenca thirteen (trece) years. She owned and operated a restaurant here for few years and now she does cooking classes two days a week and she offers a monthly event. This month was Oktoberfest.
We were joined by eight other folks plus our host and her beau. All of us were from the US expat with the exception of the beau who is from Cuenca but attended university in the States and worked and traveled there for several years before coming back South. He comes from one of the 'established' Cuenca families and he told us about his home (36 bedrooms with a 350X15 swimming pool. He was thoroughly engaging and completely charming. Our host was also personable and fascinating.
We knew and have spent time with two of the other couples and the two new acquaintance couple were also very engaging and interesting folk. The meal was wonderful and the wine flowed. A great time. Dinner for two with six glasses of a nice white wine (vino blanco) was $44.00.
But what really caught my attention (leave it to me) was this. A very common conversation theme here amongst the ex-pats is 'things that you can't get here'. The list almost exclusively made up of food stuffs like; horse radish, Fritos, Dejon mustard, French onion soup mix, rice-a-roni. Mostly this conversation revolves around methods folks have devised to simulate or replicate these items out available ingredients. In lieu of this, where they can be found for purchase in either original or replicated form.
Todays' 'I can't get it here' discussion was also a familiar one. It revolved around Netflix and Roku. Ways to make these systems work, but more importantly what shows are now accessible. I find this conversation fascinating and ironical. Because, as interesting, social, charming and diverse as these people are, the TV shows that captivate them, thoroughly bore me.
Different strokes.

So you want to be a notary public in Ecuador? Well you have to start with a Doctor of Law degree and follow that up with at least ten years of practice. Then you can apply to be considered for a notary position. Cuenca is a city of about half of a million (media milion) and it has thirteen notaries. This is the sort of stuff that  fascinates me. Odd character.

There is a local artist named Vega who work is ethni as well as interesting. There are several local shops that sell the work as well as a factory.
Jackie went with our Italian lady friend on the bus to the factory. She got some great stuff. Here are some pics.

We got awakened, awoked, woked-up early this morning to the vibrations of a 5.3 earthquake. It did no damage in Cuenca that we know of, but it was an eye opener. It is such a helpless feeling because no matter how strong you are or how well you have prepared or how much you have read, you are still powerless against the forces of nature. It is humbling to experience such an vent.
Not something to wake to daily, but fairly awesome.

After two weeks of warm, sunny weather, we are now concluding our third straight day with at least one extended (one hour plus) rainfall. The weather remains warm, low to mid seventies. And yes Western Washington dwellers even on days with rain, we still have sunny spots.
We went to a pop-up restaurant affair and had a Viet Nahmese meal. It was on top of a building in el centro (pic included). Each table sat eight. We ended up sitting with a very interesting Italian lady who lives in our building, and two of her friends who were also quite interesting. That made five of us and left three empty seats.
As we conversed and drank wine, we were soon joined by a somewhat quiet gentleman. Through conversation we learned that he was waiting for his wife who was coming separately from her work. The meal was five courses and she arrived before the first course. As is custom, introductions were completed about the time that dinner began. As the evening and the meal progressed, this gentleman and I conversed. It turns out he is the co-author of one of the books that we read and that helped us decide to come to Cuenca. He is also co-founder of gringo tree and gringo post. He has also written for international living, and he currently writes for Cuenca highlife. He has been in Cuenca about twelve years and is married to a lovely Ecuadorian lady who operates Rentals Cuenca. They deal a lot in turnkey rentals.
Interesting evening. We keep meeting fascinating folks. What fun.